Friday, August 29, 2008

Ramadan in Egypt - Guide for Tourists and Newbies

"Ramadan lasts for one month (from the 1st September to the 30th September in 2008, and 22st August to the 20th September in 2009 plus add vacations days for famous EID holiday at end of Ramadan. (e.gr in 2009 Ramadan will end Sept. 20th but first day of "business as usual will likely be September 27th) During the holy month, many businesses closing during daylight hours, particularly in the afternoon. However this does not generally apply to businesses that cater predominantly to tourists.
Some of the tourist sites will close earlier (around 3.00pm), so we will be taking this into account and starting some of your tours a little earlier in the morning on some days and shortening lunch breaks when required (it is not too hot during the middle of the day in September or October, so this does not cause a problem this year).
Although visiting non-Muslims are certainly not expected to fast during daylight hours, it is considered impolite to openly eat, drink or smoke in public, the exception being in obvious tourist areas. Hotels and restaurants will still be serving food to tourists all day, and evening meals in the hotels are particularly good at this time of year.
During Ramadan, it is very courteous and considered polite to greet Muslim people with the words - Ramadam Karim." Reference

"The festive period of Ramadan in Egypt is an excellent period, which simply adds more color and fun to the country of monuments and ancient civilization. The festival of Ramadan in Egypt is different from elsewhere. Other than the rituals practiced during the month, there are other certain social habits of Egyptian Muslims that are much different than anywhere else.

The exact timing of this one-month long festival during the year is variable, sometimes falling in summer and sometimes in winter. However Ramadan is a month that follows the lunar calendar, the basis of the Islamic (or Hijri) calendar. Astronomical calculations are utilized to detect the birth of the new moon. Ramadan festival lasts for 29 or 30 days.

The principal ritual during Ramadan festival is fasting. This entails abandoning eating, drinking, smoking, sex from dawn to sunset. The daily meals become limited to two. "Iftar" the breakfast or first meal is just after sunset. While "sohour" the second meal is just before dawn. However the timing of the second meal is variable according to personal preference

Natives of Egypt adopt certain social habits for Ramadan festival. These social habits are not directly related to religion. Officially, the working hours are diminished to allow more time for prayers. People usually sleep very late and spend substantial time in the mosques. Usually all the traditional practice starts immediately after sunset." Reference

Some additional insights:

As mentioned above, the fasting time is from sunrise to sunset. For expatriates the few hours before the sunset period is important to appreciate, as the people fasting have been doing so for about 13 hours - they can be very tired and irritable and some driving radically to get home to enjoy their Iftar. I personally stay off the roads till about 1/2 hour after sunset. The sunset timings can be found here. At this time you will have all the roads pretty much to yourself. What a funny feeling it is to be alone on normally chaotic roads.

In Maadi and, all other areas I'm sure, it is not unusual to tables and chairs, with tent like covers laid out on the streets. Drive carefully as these are ready made eateries that have been setup by private individuals, and some companies, to provide Iftar food and drinks for persons that cannot get to their homes. So you will experience many persons on the street and please beware. Also, if driving at Iftar time don't be surprised if someone hands you a small package of drink with food into your car window. I think this is a fantastic event to witness.

About 1 hour, or bit more after Iftar, what seems like a global party begins, and the traffic jams happen instantaneously. Seems everyone is out and about enjoying themselves (all 17 million) and all are invited even you expats. The party atmosphere last till very early hours of the morning. Quite an experience downtown especially and if you are out at Iftar you will likely be invited to join one of the free eateries. Egyptians are very tolerant of us expats, and almost overly friendly at times.

And don't worry, most stores, restaurants, coffee shops, and pubs are open for business as usual. There is a saying that Egyptians consume as much food during Ramadan as they do all the other months put together.

Also if working, the hours are diminished and usually offices will close around 2 pm. A good time to stay off he roads if you can. Some shops will close about 3 pm till about 1 or 2 hours after Iftar. Don't expect anyone to serve you at Iftar time - they are thirsty and hungry. Also most schools have diminished hours, so this year my youngsters start day after Ramadan is expected to begin and they will be home by 2pm. Yikes - just had them for the whole summer, and now they come early home to bug parents!

Not all Egyptians are happy with the diminished working hours, and schedule changes, per this article in the Egyptian Gazette found under the HOME section at bottom of posting. Link



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